A spontaneous account of a whirlwind decision, and its aftermath, to resign our jobs and travel across Europe together in the first year of our marriage.
"The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page" St Augustine
Monday, September 19, 2011
'Leave the guns, take the cannoli'
Sicily - salty royal blue surf and searing heat pelting down on dusty piazzas and domed churches. The birthplace of cannoli and Mafioso, arriving on this sun kissed island is like being transported to a scene of the ‘old country’ in a Mafia movie.
Indeed Messina, the town of our Sicilian stop, was the actual location for the filming of ‘The Godfather 2’. So much of the timeworn buildings, stereotypical residents and ‘rough around the edges’ atmosphere conjured up vivid images of a forgotten era.
With most of the ship’s guests, over half of whom hailed from Italia, still on board the ship and packing the pool and gym areas to maximum capacity, spending a day in Messina was a chance to step out of the luxurious sophistication and crowds of a cruise bubble and into an authentic and humble world. We wandered the streets, curiously peering into every grocer, cafĂ© and deli along the way and taking in the lazy hazy afternoon ambience of a region that holds so much mystery and infamy.
Despite our secret wish of stumbling upon a car chase complete with large shiny black vehicles or a shoot-out between men in tailored black suits and fedoras, the town was rather unassuming and relaxed. I was intrigued by the exotic mix of Moorish, Venetian, Spanish and Italian influences in the architecture, religion and cultural life of the island, not to mention the dialect, and would truly love to explore more of this area in the future.
Carrying the striking mental pictures of exquisitely delicate and gold flecked mosaics of Madonna and child that bathed the roof and beams of the main basilica, Messina was a relatively monotone detour sprinkled with moments of remarkable beauty and perplexity.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
A note on European parking
After nearly two months of driving on the wrong side of the road less travelled, through France, Spain and Italy, we have come to some incredibly profound and universally powerful conclusions.
The key to road safety in Europe can be summed up in three deceptively simple words: hard, fast and dangerous. With lots of swerving. Lots.
Now it some of these tips may seem counterintuitive, but here are some of my top driving/parking/ vehicle points to keep in mind. Thank me later:
1. Paying for parking is for suckers – it’s expensive, your car will get dented and it’s harder to find than hen’s teeth and unicorns. There is never any excuse to pay for parking in Europe: just pull over into an alley, put on your hazards and head on out. Everyone’s doing it?
2. Nudging the vehicles in front and behind you to get that perfect parallel position is a special kind of art. Master it immediately.
3. I recommend Smart cars, which in Europe can be parked horizontally and vertically into any roadside space.
4. Driving lanes are mere suggestions and when rounding corners on blind rises, feel free to pop on over to the other side for a bit (this is especially popular along coastal corniches).
5. Speed limits are minimum recommendations; the only real limitation is your imagination and whatever horsepower you’re packing.
6. Hooting is obligatory and seems to be a cheery way of greeting fellow motorists.
7. Do not trust scruffy men wearing takkies at toll booths. They will rob you, and yes I speak from experience.
8. Violent hand gestures are a must and really do add to the calm and soothing environment around you.
9. Stopping for pedestrians is frowned upon, under any and all circumstances.
10. Vespas have right of way, always and no matter what.
11. And if you have more than one or two pieces of hand luggage, do not even think of hiring a Fiat 500. (If by some evil stroke of karma you do end up with a Fiat 500, quickly swop it out during a beer break at the rental car place and do not, I repeat, do not look back).
You're welcome!
Monday, September 12, 2011
Just Cruising!
Okay, the magnitude of the sheer awesomeness of this little adventure is now getting obscene. With immense thanks to our travel guru extraordinaire and the woman known to many simply as ‘The Mother’, our very own Janno, our hopes of somehow hopping past Sicily, Greece and Turkey were filled beyond our wildest expectations. Yes you guessed it, enter an Eastern Mediterranean cruise aboard the ‘Navigator of the Seas’!
Gary and I love cruising. I’ve had the privilege of cruising with my family on previous occasions and across various cruise lines (Celebrity, Oceania and Royal Caribbean) whilst Gary got his first taste of it on our Celebrity South American honeymoon adventure earlier this year (which only whet his appetite for more!). Cruising combines all of our favourite things in one sinfully luxurious ship – for me, meal times which blur into each other, a daily rotation of exotic destinations and dirty Martinis as far as the eye can see; for Gary, bingo, bingo and did I mention bingo? We were both so excited to jump on board at Civitavecchia. What a week it’s gonna be!
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